Fujifilm AUTO ISO Settings: What It Is and When to Use It

One of the things that has improved my photography was getting over my 2006-era mentality that we still have 2006-era technology.  It’s come so far! 

Ten years ago I avoided shooting over ISO400 because of the noise levels, and that reasoning has somehow survived longer than it should have.  I shot at slower shutter speeds to make this happen.  Many a soft image is due to camera shake.

The truth is, even modern APS-C cameras like the Fujifilm X-T2 & X-E3 are going to give you great images at up to ISO6400, even 12800.  This is often enough for 98% of photographers and is one of the reasons why you should be using Fuji’s AUTO ISO setting.

Note: While the “how-to” is specific to Fujifilm cameras, the concept can be applied to other major manufacturers.  Check your owner’s manual for details.

The Aperture Priority dilemma

Aperture Priority is a popular setting.  You set the aperture to control the depth of field, and then the camera determines the correct shutter speed for proper exposure. 

Most “I’ll set my own ISO, thank you very much” photographers leave the ISO set to something low to get a “clean” image.  Holdouts like me.

The problem is, if you’re not careful, the proper shutter speed could be too low.  This can result in unwanted motion, both in your subject and in the camera.

This is where the Fujifilm AUTO ISO setting and current technology saves the day.

jasper national park
This storm moved in FAST, dropping the ambient light significantly. Thankfully, AUTO ISO kept my minimum shutter speed fast enough to mostly freeze the snowflakes and freezing people, increasing the ISO to 1600 to do so. Aperture Priority @ f/8.

Here’s the video version if you’d rather watch this:

What is AUTO ISO?

Just like it sounds, AUTO ISO lets the camera determine the ISO to give you a proper exposure, within the range you set. 

But the moneymaker is also being able to program a minimum shutter speed to get a pseudo-shutter priority – increasing image sharpness.

The current generation of Fujifilm X cameras allows you to have three different custom AUTO ISO settings.

fujifilm auto iso setting
Old school: The Fujifilm X100F has a pull-up sleeve to set the ISO within the shutter dial, just like my ancient Pentax.

How AUTO ISO works

With both ISO and Shutter dial in “AUTO”:

  1. Your camera will first go to the lowest ISO you programmed and adjust the shutter speed for the proper exposure.
  2. If your programmed minimum shutter speed isn’t slow enough, the camera will then raise the ISO to get the right exposure, up to your programmed maximum limit.
  3. If it’s still underexposed, the camera will then slow down the shutter speed below the minimum you’ve set to get the proper exposure.

EXAMPLE: You set an ISO range of 200-3200 and a minimum shutter speed of 1/250 second.  If the image will be underexposed by one stop at 1/250 and ISO3200, the camera will automatically lower the shutter speed to 1/125 second while maintaining ISO3200.

With ISO in “AUTO” but the shutter dial set to a specific speed (not “A”):

The camera will hold that shutter speed and operate within your programmed ISO range. 

This could result in underexposed images if the ISO isn’t high enough and/or the shutter isn’t slow enough.

low light image
In this AUTO ISO setting, I had a minimum speed of 1/125 and maximum ISO of 6400. With low light, the camera captured the exposure at ISO6400 and 1/15 second (exposure compensaiton -4).  Shooting in burst mode ensured a few sharp images.

When to use AUTO ISO

I use AUTO ISO most of the time now as I become more comfortable with higher ISO values

The only time I don’t use AUTO ISO is when I’m maximizing the capabilities of my camera for full artistic expression. 

Long exposures, for example, need to be as “noiseless” as possible.  I’ll lower the ISO as much as I can while staying within the bounds of the shutter speed and aperture I need to use for my vision.

dades gorge
For this image, I needed a 2-minute exposure and wanted to keep the ISO low, around 200-400. I made it work with an aperture of f/4.0. This is where you’re better off shooting in Manual.

How to program Fujifilm AUTO ISO settings

  • You can set the ISO range along the gamut of the base ISOs (typically 160-12800).  You cannot program expanded ISO ranges.
  • The minimum shutter speed can typically be set from 1/4 second to 1/500 second.
  • You can also set the shutter speed to AUTO in the AUTO ISO programming menu.  In this case, the camera sets a shutter speed approximately inverse to the lens’ focal length (i.e. a 35mm lens will have a minimum speed of around 1/40 second).  This is a great technique for minimizing camera shake.  It also works with Fujifilm zoom lenses as you change the focal length. But keep in mind it may not be enough to freeze motion in front of you.  This is only advisable for still life.

There are so many different ways that you can utilize the Fujifilm AUTO ISO settings.  I’m not going to tell you that my way is the correct way, but rather just tell you how I have it set and my thought process behind it.

1) Think about which ISO & shutter speed settings make sense for your style

The needs of a landscape photographer will be different than a street photographer.  But this is how I do it now after some trial & error:

  • AUTO1: My primary travel-type images require a steady shot and freezing everyday motion.  I don’t mind a little grain.  I’ve set the ISO range of 160-6400 and a minimum shutter speed of 1/200 second.  I use this for portraits too.
  • AUTO2: When I step away from people & other moving objects I go to AUTO2, like for landscapes and still life. I’ve set the ISO range to 160-1600 and a minimum shutter speed of AUTO to base shutter speed on my focal length (1/40 on my X100V).  I’m only concerned about minimizing camera shake in these situations, and I benefit from a slightly cleaner image with the lower ISO.
  • AUTO3: My “emergency, gotta capture the scene” dial.  I’m looking for a sharp photo and don’t care about the noise level because of the urgency to capture.  ISO range is 160-12800 and minimum shutter speed 1/125 second.

Once you have an idea of how you want to program it, it’s time to program it.

2) Program AUTO ISO settings in the menu

Program Auto ISO

Each Fujifilm X camera is slightly different, but more or less the same.  In the menu, go into the Shooting Settings and then find ISO AUTO SETTING. 

From there it’s fairly self-explanatory.  Set the

  1. default (lowest) ISO setting,
  2. maximum ISO setting, and
  3. minimum shutter speed.

3) Program your AUTO ISO function button

You can program any of the custom buttons to access your Fuji AUTO ISO setting.

I used the front command dial (on the front of the camera below the shutter button) on older cameras like the X-T2, X-E3, and X100F. In the Button/Dial Settings, set COMMAND to ISO DIAL SETTING, or ISO DIAL SETTING (A) to COMMAND, depending on the camera.  Rotating the front command dial now allows you to immediately switch between AUTO1, AUTO2, and AUTO3.

Newer cameras don’t allow you to do this anymore and I really miss that feature! If you have an extra custom button to spare, hold the DISP/BACK button and assign ISO AUTO SETTING to the button you wish to use.

Or, at a minimum, at least put AUTO ISO in your My Menu so you can quickly get to it after pressing MENU.

The X-E3 also allows you to set 3 AUTO ISOs for each Custom Setting.  These can be programmed from Image Quality Setting -> Edit Custom Setting.  By default these follow the three settings you’ve programmed in the Shooting Settings.  You may override them for each custom setting.

Overriding Full AUTO ISO in a pinch

fujifilm auto iso
Override the AUTO ISO shutter speed by simply rotating the shutter dial out of “A” (right of viewfinder).  The ISO dial is on the left.  X-T2 pictured.

There are times when you’ll want a slower shutter speed to show movement and will need to adjust quickly.  This is one of the beauties of using the Fuji AUTO ISO settings in concert with their awesome ergonomics.

Leave the camera in AUTO ISO but rotate the shutter dial to the speed you desire (1/30 or whatever you need for movement).  No menus, no fidgeting around…it takes a quarter of a second.  Now you’re in both Aperture and Shutter priority, letting the camera adjust ISO to get the exposure.


In the above example, I was in and out of buildings, shooting in AUTO ISO so that I’d maintain a fast enough shutter speed to freeze movement as I bounced between lighting situations. 

But as I watched this scene, I wanted to show a subtle movement to put the viewer there.  I quickly dropped my shutter dial to 1/60 and snapped this photo during the action. 

Before going back outside I put the shutter dial back in AUTO to give me the minimum of 1/200 that I had programmed for sharp images in the AUTO ISO menu.  I was now back in Aperture priority and a pseudo-shutter priority with the Auto ISO.

The final step for using Fujifilm’s AUTO ISO settings

Practice.  And then practice more.

Go shoot in all sorts of scenarios and get used to switching between the three different AUTO ISO settings if you’re using them.  Know which settings are best for different scenarios.

You don’t want to be in AUTO2 for shooting a landscape then miss a spontaneous portrait opportunity because you were at 1/30 second when your subject moved.  Get to the point where you go to the proper setting without needing to think about it and your photography will definitely improve!

How do you have AUTO ISO set up?


  1. I found the article very interesting and I have set up auto iso on my fuji xt2 and will give it a try.
    One question though , do the auto iso settings only appear at the end of the standard iso list when you rotate the front command dial ?
    Is it possible just to cycle through the three of them , and not all the other iso settings ,using the front command dial ?
    Iso dial is set to auto and my xt2 has the latest firmware.

    • Hi Brian, that’d be a great way to do it but it’s not possible right now. It’d be worth recommending to Fujifilm though.
      When I go to AUTO ISO on the top dial, I set either 1, 2, or 3 with the front command dial THEN PUSH the front command dial so it goes back to controlling shutter speed. I’ve accidentally gone from AUTO ISO1 to ISO51200 when the dial gets bumped, not noticing it, and missed a few good shots. So it kinda “disables” that button when Auto ISO is set.

  2. New E3 owner. This was a helpful article but it’s missing how Exposure Compensation interacts with Auto ISO. EC does not seem to operate if you’re in full manual as it does in Nikon DSLRs which is a problem in that you cannot increase or decrease your exposure relative to what the meter calls for as any change you make in shutter speed or aperture is compensated for by a change in ISO. I’m hoping I’m missing something.

    • Hi Les, it took me a minute to wrap my head around that but I’m pretty sure I know what you’re asking. So, “full manual” with Fujifilm cameras means that ISO is in manual also. If any of the three – shutter, aperture, and/or ISO – are in AUTO, EC will control any of the variables set to AUTO, including ISO. If you want to adjust your shutter speed without the ISO changing, you need to put the ISO in manual. Is that what you were asking?

  3. Hi,
    Thank you for this precious info.
    I’ve found another way of switching from an auto iso setting to another (from Tony Phillips’ book): set the auto iso Fn to the Left arrow -> you can now press left, this opens the auto iso quick menu, choose the auto iso with up and down, then (important) press left again to quit the quick menu. It will save your auto iso setting on-the-fly without leading you to the full auto iso menu setting.
    Hope that helps.

    1 question though: my lens is 18-55mm f2.8. If I set the shutter speed to auto, does it automatically adapt to the new focal length as I zoom in and out?

    • Ah yes that’s another good way of doing it if you don’t already have those buttons mapped to anything.
      And yes! The processor will account for the focal length you’re at, changing your minimum shutter speed as you zoom. I love that feature on lenses with longer throws, like my 18-135mm.

  4. Thank you so much for this 🙂

    I’m just wondering. Is there any way to prevent the Shutter from dropping below the minimum you’ve set, even if the camera is detecting that the scene is underexposed?

    Many thanks again for the detailed post.

    • You’re welcome and thanks for writing.

      The only way to absolutely prevent that is by taking your Shutter Speed dial out of Auto and setting a specific shutter speed.

      Otherwise you can try setting a higher maximum ISO, a wider aperture, or lowering the exposure compensation. The camera will always lower the shutter speed in AUTO ISO if it deems it necessary to get the exposure.

  5. Super helpful article! This is exactly what I needed as I’ve been getting familiar with my recently acquired X-T3.
    Question: Why does your emergency-scene-capturing Auto setting have a slower (1/125) minimum shutter speed than your everyday Auto setting (1/200)? Shouldn’t the emergency Auto shutter speed at least match or exceed the everyday one? I would have expected something like 1/200 with ISO 12800.

    • Thanks Preston, I understand what you’re saying.
      But using a slower shutter speed gives me a little more latitude in poor lighting. It basically gives me two-thirds of an extra stop of light, for times when I’m more concerned about just getting the exposure rather than having a fast shutter speed to freeze motion.

      • What are your “emergency, gotta capture the scene” situations? What makes them not capturable under your AUTO1 settings? Is it just that they’re even more low light (but less motion)?

        • Yeah so just to give you an example, I was in Africa earlier this year photographing some outdoor education programs. Very bright, lots of movement. They quickly grabbed me to go inside and photograph a meeting, which was only lit by a doorway, and I couldn’t grab a speedlight. All I had to do was click over to Auto3. There was a little bit of blur in their hands with the gesturing, but that added some dimension to the photos. It just gave me a little more to work with in regards to exposure in an unexpected situation.

  6. I also have the 18-135, but when using auto ISO with minimum shutter speed set to AUTO, my X-T20 completely disregards the (excellent) OIS of that lens. At the wide end 18mm it gives me a minimum shutter speed of 1/25. Not bad, but with OIS I can get sharp shots at 1/4, so the ISO is cranked at least 3 stops higher than it needs to be. Fully zoomed at 135mm it’s giving me a shutter speed of 1/200—still following the inverse of the focal length, but at least 4 stops faster than it needs to be for a non-moving subject. Do the cameras that you use exhibit the same behaviour?

    This makes the AUTO minimum shutter speed kind of useless for me as a method of preventing camera shake while keeping ISO as low as possible. I’m finding the shutter speed settings for Fuji kind of useless in general, seem to be designed by and for people who are stuck in the mindset that being in manual mode will somehow yield a technically better image (when the opposite is true in this case).

    In nearly a year of using Fuji X cameras, I can only think of two situations in which using the shutter speed dial was advantageous: fixing exposure for timelapses (full manual), and panning shots where you’re looking for a specific amount of blur . 99% of my photography, however, (portraits, wildlife, street, still life, macro, architecture) is about keeping ISO as low as possible while prevent either camera shake (always) or freezing movement (at my discretion). And doing that simple thing is a serious PITA with my X-T20.

    • Yeah, unfortunately it doesn’t take OIS into consideration. I’ve handheld that lens down to a half-second at about 50mm and still got a sharp image, which completely blew my mind.

      Lesson learned is that AUTO ISO is completely situation-dependent and photographer-dependent based on goals and tastes. It’s an imperfect “nice-to-have” feature that can really help some people; others will have to do things the old-fashioned way. And that’s true for all camera brands.

      I too hardly ever touch the shutter dial, mostly leaving it in A except for the situations you described. However, I’ve found that these settings yield ISO values that I’m perfectly happy with, i.e. I don’t really care if it’s 800 when it could probably be 200. Mostly because I don’t consider myself a “fine art” photographer who needs zero noise, and there’s honestly not much difference between 800 & 200 noise unless you’re viewing at 100% and specifically looking for noise, which isn’t how anyone (other than photographers) really views images. But that’s just my opinion and why it works for me.

      If you absolutely need the lowest ISO possible and don’t want to touch the shutter dial, then I’d recommend just leaving the ISO in manual and keeping an eye on what the automatic shutter speed is giving you, ensuring it’s not too slow, and raising the ISO if it is (like photographers had to do before AUTO ISO was a thing). I hope that gives you some encouragement.

      • Thanks for the reply and recommendations. Let me clarify one thing: I happily take photos at 12800 and still think they’re acceptable for py purposes. But if that exact same photo could have been taken at 3200, that just doesn’t sit well with me. I ultimately moved to Fuji from my smartphone for better image quality and better handling/controls (so no, I’ve never changed ISO by swapping the film roll), and although I love my X-T20 overall, the shutter speed controls are a fail in my mind.

        I’ve current got the auto ISO minimums set up across three different custom setting groups, but this is an extremely cumbersome system. Meanwhile the shutter speed dial—one of the drawcards of the X series for many I’m sure—sits there unused.

        Allow me to elaborate with an example. I’m outside late afternoon shooting birds in flight. I’m using using auto ISO with a minimum shutter speed of 1/500 (because that’s the fastest that Fuji allows). If clouds come over, the ISO will ramp without risking motion blur—so far so good. I see a perched bird and since it’s still cloudy/dark, I want to lower the shutter speed. I’ve mapped ISO to a direction pad button so with three clicks and a bit of concentration I can get the lower minimum shutter speed and take the shot. If I used the shutter speed dial, I’d risk overexposing if there were more light than I thought or conditions suddenly changed since I’m controlling the aperture as well. Then as the sun sets I’d like to take some landscape shots. At the wide end I know I can shoot at 1/4, so that’s what I want my minimum to be. Then I want to zoom in and take another shot, but I’d need at least 1/15 to prevent camera shake. Since only three auto ISO settings are allowed within each custom setting group, I’d need to switch to a different custom setting using the quick menu or another Dpad shortcut, then select the desired auto ISO.

        Is it too much to ask to be able to do this efficiently? Are the people that are bothered by images being noisier than they need to be really such a minority?

        • AUTO ISO is a wonderful aid, but that’s all it is – an aid. On the “history of photography” timeline, it’s one of the newest additions to photography. We’re lucky to have it. Ten years ago only a few cameras had it, and it was extremely basic then. But we need to understand where it’s useful and where it’s not. You’ll find some situations where it’s very useful for what you do, and other situations where it’s useless. It’s not going to work for everything, and we need to accept that. That’s true about every feature that cameras have. And I’m not sure if I understood what you said about “risking overexposure by using the shutter dial,” but if you override AUTO ISO by clicking your shutter speed out of A, you’re only overriding your set minimum shutter speed. Your camera will still give you automatic exposure control using the ISO range you’ve set in that AUTO ISO program. So if your AUTO ISO program is, say, 200-6400 with a min shutter speed of 1/500, and that bird is perched so you want a lower ISO with a slower shutter speed, just click the shutter dial to 1/125 and you’ll still get the same exposure but at an ISO two stops lower.

          To honestly answer your question, no, not many photographers who use AUTO ISO care about their pictures being “noisier” than they need to be – it’s more about the moment. That’s part of leaving it up to the camera. You’re not going to have that kind of fine control. For those who do make “as little noise as possible” a priority, they’re better off using manual ISO – and that’s totally fine. It’s what we did for over a hundred years before this feature came along.
          I never look at what ISO value the camera gives me when I’m doing documentary photography, because it’s about the story, and AUTO ISO helps me get the story. My editors would agree. It doesn’t matter if it was 1600 where it probably could have been 400. I just don’t care, as long as I captured the moment. But if I wanted “the cleanest” image, I’d be in manual ISO.

          My recommendation would be to find times where it helps you. Where it doesn’t, embrace the challenge of learning a different technique that will work better in those situations.

          • Great remarks, and I very much appreciate you taking the time to respond. I agree with virtually everything you’ve said, and I think where we differ just comes down to our styles, photographic background etc. But allow me to play devil’s advocate for a moment 😀

            I understand that a minimum shutter speed doesn’t apply to all situations, however, by my estimate, it’s objectively superior for 99% of the photos that I take. I’m not talking about some photographic niche either—my photos are travel-related, of family, events, pets… food (so I guess you could call that documentary) and occasionally I’ll try my hand at wildlife and macro.

            Let me clarify the overexposed bird scenario: the risk isn’t actually of getting an overexposed photo, the risk is of getting no photo at all since you may have to tweak the shutter speed faster again to ensure proper exposure, which takes time (the bird ain’t gonna wait). Again, you can simply leave the shutter speed high and cop the extra noise, but if you crop heavily into the shot in post you will notice the increased noise.

            Absolutely it’s more about the moment. But if it were purely about the moment, we’d just use the smart phone in our pocket and call it a day. I know that’s a bit hyperbolic, but camera sales are being eaten by ever-improving smart phone cameras, and if camera brands can’t even design an interface to efficiently get the most out of their bulky and expensive hardware, then they deserve to go extinct (OK maybe that’s a touch dramatic).

            Sure if I wanted the cleanest possible image I’d be in manual ISO or manual shutter speed. I’d carefully adjust the shutter speed to ensure it’s fast enough to prevent camera shake at my current focal length and freeze subject if applicable. If the scene’s overexposed, I’d carefully increase the shutter speed on the dial until the exposure looks about right, then adjust with the wheel until it’s perf—damn, now someone’s standing in the scene blocking the view and the tour group’s already 100m down the road!

            Maybe it’s my interface design background, but I’m loath to embrace a design that is, in my opinion, objectively inferior and so poorly thought out (and in the case of auto min s/s not taking OIS into account—broken). And I probably wouldn’t get so worked up about it if I didn’t love my X-T20 so much for its other fantastic attributes.

            End rant

            • As much as we think it would help, there’s nothing worse for learning photography than an engineering background (and mine is in EE). I have to “quarantine” that side of my brain whenever I pick up my camera, otherwise, I’d be as frustrated as you.

              This is an easy fix and I’m sorry I couldn’t fully explain it last time.
              If you’re in AUTO ISO and need a different minimum shutter speed for that specific moment, just rotate that shutter speed knob to what you want. It’s that easy. You don’t have to touch anything else as long as your aperture and ISO range are reasonable. You would hate having to do this on a Canon, Nikon, or Sony; Fuji is the easiest. When I teach students who are using those cameras it totally pains me to show them how to address these scenarios cause I wish they just had a Fuji. And BTW, most of those other cameras only allow you to program one AUTO ISO setting.
              You’re still not in “full manual” mode and don’t have to worry about your exposure changing. You’re in “aperture-shutter priority” which is still an automatic exposure mode. Doing a wide-angle landscape? Look at the top of the camera and set the shutter to 4. Then see an eagle flying and want to freeze it? Go seven clicks to 500; it’ll take a fraction of a second for you to do that. Then want to do a portrait of a friend? Go two clicks to 125.
              Unrelated photometry imperfections aside, your exposure will not change; it’s still based on your exposure compensation dial. If the exposure does change, it’s because your aperture is too large or too small to give you a proper exposure with the shutter speed you selected and the ISO range you’ve set. At that point, it’s not the camera’s fault – that’s the photographer’s misapplication of the basic exposure triangle.
              Go out and shoot only in this “aperture-shutter priority” mode to see how it works and get good at it.

              Fujifilm designers are probably the best in the business when it comes to listening to user feedback and making UX changes. If everyone hated this design, it’d be different by now for sure. If you think you have a better solution, let them know, they’re open to feedback.

  7. If I need to try catch something fast and don’t have time to adjust to a faster minimum ISO, I use the dial. However, I always shoot with a specified aperture, and unless I’m doing landscapes or close-ups it’s generally wide open. So I do run the risk of having an overexposed scene on a sunny day for example until I further adjust the shutter speed to be faster, but it’s just an annoyance, not a deal-breaker. Interesting comment on using other systems—I suppose I should be counting my blessing being with Fuji! The PASM dial is such an illogical design that I’d sooner shoot with my mid-range smartphone than one of those (even if it’s a Fuji).

    I realise that a camera can’t be at fault if it’s working as designed—but that doesn’t mean it can’t be improved. I also didn’t mean to disparage the Fuji designers in any way—I think overall they’ve done a great job (although the Q-button placement on the X-T30 is another matter 😉 ). As you said, they respond to their customers and the market in general, and if their customers don’t complain about a bit of unnecessary noise and not getting the absolute highest change of capturing sudden action, then what incentive do they have.

    I will look into getting in contact with Fuji about this (once I can find the appropriate channel), but this conversation has very much helped to clarify my thoughts on the topic. Just in case you’re interested, my recommendations would be something along the lines of:
    – Add a new option to the minimum shutter speed setup menu (where you currently have 1/500 to 1/4 and AUTO) called AUTO+DIAL. This would work the same as the existing auto mode, except when you change the shutter dial from auto to a specific speed, that chosen speed will now act as the MINIMUM shutter speed. While allowing the camera to shoot at a speed that differs from what’s been manually selected on the dial might irk some, I think it’s the most elegant way to utilise the shutter speed dial in a more modern and useful way without changing the hardware. It’s also completely optional and there’s basicaly no chance you’ll activate it by accident. Once the action’s passed and you want to shoot a static subject, just put the dial back to A and you can trust that hand shake will be controlled at any focal length. If you want a longer exposure on a tripod, set a manual ISO (or choose a different AUTO ISO setting with a low range).
    – Show minimum speeds on the display/EVF. Put the minimum speed with a + symbol next to it, maybe use a different font colour. Once the exposure has been calculated, this gets swapped out with the actual speed.
    – Allow auto minimum shutter speed to take advantage of OIS. Fuji should be able to detect the OIS capability based on the lens model (i.e. how many stops it claims to stabalise) and whether OIS is turned on or off, so it seems like this should be technically possible without hardware changes.
    – Allow the user to modify the auto shutter speed to be a percentage slower or faster than whatever is calculated, to cater for people with shaky hands or people who just like a larger margin of error/shake.

    It seems like all of this should be doable simply via firmware update. Not that I’d get it on my X-T20, but it’d be a pretty compelling reason to upgrade 😉

    • For anyone interested in enhancements to minimum shutter speed for Fuji X cameras, I’ve clarified my thoughts into an article which can be found here: https://medium.com/@jade.steffensen_34722/fixing-fujifilm-shutter-speed-e123fd471d66?source=friends_link&sk=ea18a2be29cd734f2a644d31688dccca

      I’m trying to get as much feedback as possible on this before taking these proposals directly to Fujifilm.

      (BTW the previous comment is supposed to be in reply to one by John Peltier on January 9, 2020 at 10:14 am, but I think we exceeded the comment depth limit)

      • Great ideas, I especially like being able to adjust minimum shutter speed on the fly somehow.
        Newer Sonys do have a “Fast/Faster/Slow/Slower” choice to refine the “Auto” minimum/focal length shutter speed, but I don’t see that as a “set and forget” setting. At least they’re trying to give more options. And too bad the rest of Sony UIX is THE WORST!

        • Thanks for the feedback! It always baffles me how these huge camera companies can put out UIs that are so poorly designed. I’m kind of intrigued to try out the Sony UI now—maybe I’ll have to drop by the local camera store and see if they have one on display.

  8. That is all very well, but my xt-30 does not show me the values decided by the camera when in auto iso mode.
    Even worse, if you also set the ss to auto you are made only aware of aperture (let’s say I set it manually on the lens) and exposure correction (for example set to C) Not even halfway pressing the release button gives you a clue what those final values of ss and iso will be.
    In comparison, my canon gives me all 4 values, that is f-stop, ss, iso and exposure comp at all times even without pressing the shutter release half way.
    So here I know when to adjust the camera algorithm. For example if the camera gives me a combo of 1/1000sec plus iso 400. I can quickly ‘adjust the curve’ and dial up speed to reduce iso to 100.

    Does this ‘tapping’ in the dark not bother any other fuji users I wonder?

    • The whole point of using AUTO ISO is so that you’re not bothered by those parameters in situations where all you care about is, “is the shutter speed fast enough to give me sharp photos”. It frees up brain bytes to concentrate more on your composition and the story. I care exactly 0% what my shutter speed and ISO are in those situations, because I’ve told my camera I’m 100% okay with it operating in a range that I’ve defined.
      In fact, I’d prefer to *not* know what my shutter speed and ISO are because that’s one less thing to distract me. I should care more about what’s happening in front of my lens than the numbers in the viewfinder, because I’ve given my camera permission to operate within a range. The exception to this is in low light, but all it takes is a few seconds to figure out which aperture, shutter, ISO, and/or artificial light you need to make it work.
      Does AUTO ISO work for all genres, subjects, and styles? Nope. But when I need to work fast, and all I need is a minimum shutter speed, AUTO ISO is a godsend. If you’re constantly asking yourself, “which ISO/SS is the camera choosing” before each and every photo, then AUTO ISO isn’t for you because you’re not comfortable with the “auto” part.

      • Hi John, I understand what Martin means. If you set your ISO to AUTO ISO, you see in your display for example “AUTO 3 ISO 3200”. But it does not show you what the actual ISO value decided by the camera’s calculation would be. That would be a helpful aid. Especially if you shoot in Manual Mode with Auto ISO, because you want a faster shutterspeed than the minimum of 1/500. You cannot set a minimum of 1/1000 in the Auto ISO settings. But you can set SS manually to 1/1000 in M mode, and let the camera decide on ISO, using Auto ISO. This combination is what I find ideal for fast-moving subjects like in sports photography, where one would care less about a little noise but wants to be sure of sharp pictures and less motion blur.

  9. John, great video and explanation, however I cannot seem to get this to work…

    Some help please using XT3 with Auto ISO
    XF 16-55 – set at 23 mm
    ISO A, F8, SS A
    Auto ISO settings:
    Default Sensitivity – 160,
    Max Sensitivity – 3200,
    Min Sutter Speed – Auto.
    However when I expose for an image I get the following settings ISO 300, SS 1.3”
    What other settings do I need to change to get Auto ISO to work?

    thanks in advance Paul

    • Hi Paul, that’s an interesting problem. I have no idea why it would go to an ISO of 300 if all of your settings are indeed as you said they were. If your lighting was that low where it would require 1.3″ at f/8 and ISO300, it should have gone straight to your max ISO of 3200 first before slowing down your shutter speed. I’d just double check what’s in that Auto ISO program and verify that you’re indeed using that program when you’re photographing. I’ve never come across anything like this.

  10. Hi John
    I just bought a new X-E3 and obviously now I’m in the process of setting all things up. Your article is very helpful but I came across with one problem so far. My ISO settings H (25600/51200) and L (100/125/160) are inactive (in grey colour) so I can’t choose them for any of the Auto ISO modes. This is the same with Fn button which I dedicated to ISO setting (the above ISO values are inactive). Do you have any idea why is that. I set my camera for Aperture Priority. I think that somewhere in settings I set something that disabled these options but what could that be ?
    Thanks in advance Piotr

    • Hi Piotr, sorry for the late reply, my X-E3 was in my studio and I just got back to it.
      You’ll be unable to select any of the expanded ISO settings (100, 125, 160, 25600, 51200) for AUTO ISO since the method this ISO uses is different than the “standard” camera ISOs. This is true for all Fujifilm X cameras, at least all the ones I’ve owned.
      If you’re still unable to select the expanded ISOs in regular camera operation, I don’t know why that would be. I changed some other settings around I thought might affect that and couldn’t find anything. If you’re still unable to select those values in regular operation, all I could recommend is doing a “set-up reset”, found in the User Setting menu.

  11. is this feature also available for the movie mode? like it said, i love aperture mode for vlogging.
    yet the iso sometimes doing crazy push up to 12k when they find a rather darker area in bright sunny day.

    from x-t4 user

    • Unfortunately, no. You can set the camera to Auto ISO but it’s not programmable in Movie mode. If you’re having that problem on a bright sunny day and the light isn’t changing, just record in manual mode. Set your aperture for desired depth of field, set your shutter speed to twice your framerate, then adjust your brightness manually with the ISO knob.

  12. Just want to say I appreciate the explanation of how minimum shutter speed of AUTO has an algorithm to look at the focal length of the lens and sets the speed to the inverse of the lens. That’s the rule of thumb I always use and to know my Fuji does that automatically is a comfort.

  13. Thanks much for this very helpful and detailed explanation. I bought my first ever digital camera last year, an xt3, and have been struggling to get the settings right. My last cameras were old Nikon and medium format cameras and the simplicity of them is shocking compared to what’s possibly on my xt3. I mostly shoot my dog and landscapes but have been struggling with action shots. But after reading this I’ve got a much better grasp of what I need to do. Thank you much!
    Also, I loved your photos of Morocco. We visited there years ago and it’s such a photogenic country!

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