I love those islands where you can just wander around for hours and feel like no one else has ever seen what you’re seeing. Carriacou is kinda like that. The island is sleepy enough that you don’t see many other people, and the people that you do see are extremely friendly and will go out of their way to help you.
I started walking north from Tyrrel Bay towards L’Esterre in search of the trail that went to the top of 590′ Mt. St. Louis and its views of Tyrrel Bay to the south and north to the Grenadines. When I got to L’Esterre and headed west, I must have taken a wrong turn. The dirt road started going downhill with no sign of it ever going back up, which isn’t what you want to see when you’re trying to go up. But whatever, that’s part of the fun of doing things like this. You’ll never know what you find.
I took in some views of Sandy Island, where I was the day prior. Then the gradually descending dirt road eventually turned into a footpath trampled through the grass, and it looked like it was headed straight for Point Cistern, the western point of Carriacou that I’ve sailed past a few times.
Down and down I went on this dirt path – through short grass, then tall grass, then into a stand of trees that I knew eventually had to lead to water. And it did; it’s like I emerged through a curtain onto this beach. It was my grand entrance onto Black Sand Beach. Not a footprint in the sand, not a piece of litter to be found. Just black sand.
After spending some time at this beach, I went back into the trees. The beach disappeared and I found another footpath off to the left. I followed this one through some tall grass and it too led to a beach. I thought I was at this White Sand Beach that I heard about, but I saw a sign nailed to a tree pointing further to the left (north) indicating White Sand Beach.
This trail gradually climbed above a bluff overlooking L’Esterre Bay and then quickly disappeared into some trees. Again, after quickly passing through the trees I arrived at another beach, this one with white sand, and no sign of anybody ever having been here before. This must be White Sand Beach!
I can’t say for certain what the mileage was or how long it took me; I kinda lost track of time as would be expected here. But Tyrrel Bay to L’Esterre is less than a mile, and after that Black Sand Beach couldn’t have been much more than another mile. Black Sand Beach to White Sand Beach wasn’t much more than a half mile.
So really, this is one of those things that you can do in a couple of hours if that’s all you have. Or spend the whole day at either one of, or both, of these beaches and enjoy the solitude!